A photograph of the whole kitchen is a good start. It rarely shows enough to price cabinet work responsibly. The sink may hide a damaged cabinet floor, the island may have three finished sides, and a tall pantry can disappear at the edge of the picture.
You do not need a professional camera or a measured drawing to begin. A few organized photographs, basic counts and an explanation of what you want changed give the conversation somewhere useful to go. Final measurements and an assessment of the actual surfaces still belong later in the process.
Show each cabinet run before taking close-ups
Stand far enough back to include an entire wall of cabinets. Take a separate view of each wall, the island and any detached pantry or serving area you want included. Keep the camera reasonably level. An extremely wide-angle setting can make cabinets appear larger or distort the corners, so ordinary photographs from several positions are often easier to read.
Include the top and bottom of the cabinetry. Crown molding, exposed cabinet ends, decorative legs, open shelves and the recessed toe-kick areas all affect the visible work. If the island back faces the living room, photograph it from that side too.
A second photograph with a few doors open can help show the cabinet construction and the relationship between the fronts and boxes. Do not empty everything just for this picture. Move personal paperwork and other private items out of view, and keep people out of the photographs.
Photograph the problems you want addressed
Take both a close-up and a wider view of each concern. A close photograph shows the damage; the wider one shows where it sits. Useful examples include worn finish near handles, peeling around a sink, loose-looking joints, damaged door corners and water staining.
Describe what you know without diagnosing it. “This area gets wet when we use the sink” is more useful than “the paint is bad.” Say when the problem appeared, whether it has changed and whether a leak has been repaired. If a door rubs another door, show them closed and explain where contact occurs. Do not force a sticking component for the sake of a photograph.
Photos cannot establish whether a cabinet is structurally sound, identify every old coating or prove that a finish will accept another coating. They help identify what needs a closer look. Do not scrape or sand a small area to reveal the layers. Older or unknown coatings require review before disturbance, and Southern Changes does not refinish or repaint lead-positive cabinets. The cabinet lead policy explains that boundary.
Count doors and drawer fronts separately
Write down the number of cabinet doors and visible drawer fronts in each part of the kitchen. Count two doors over one opening as two doors. Note false fronts, such as the fixed panel in front of a sink, separately so they do not get mistaken for working drawers.
A simple list is enough:
- Sink wall: doors, drawer fronts and one fixed sink panel.
- Cooking wall: doors, drawer fronts and any exposed end.
- Island: doors and drawers on the working side, finished back and ends.
- Pantry: tall doors and visible side panels.
Do not worry if you are unsure what a component is called. Mark the photograph or describe its location. Include glass-front doors, open cubbies and appliance panels because those details can change how a project is handled.
Keep preliminary measurements modest
If you can safely measure from the floor, approximate cabinet-run lengths and island dimensions can give useful context. Write the unit beside every number and label the numbers “approximate.” Make it clear whether you measured the cabinet run, countertop or entire wall. Those are different dimensions.
Avoid climbing onto counters or removing doors to get measurements. Door sizes for ordering, hinge positions, opening sizes and clearances require a deliberate measuring process. A rough kitchen sketch is not an order sheet, and the numbers sent in an initial message should not become the basis for purchasing replacement fronts.
A room described as ten feet by ten feet can contain very different quantities of cabinetry. A photo set and actual component count are more helpful than the room size alone. Mention unusually tall cabinets, a large island or multiple pantry units rather than expecting the dimensions to explain them.
Tell us what should stay
Include your town, whether the layout works and the result you want. “Keep the wood appearance but improve the worn areas” points toward a different assessment than “paint everything a lighter color.” Wanting flat doors instead of raised panels raises a replacement-door conversation.
Share any known painting history and product information. If you have labels or old paperwork, photograph those rather than guessing. Mention access conditions such as stairs, a narrow entry or limited parking, along with a date you are trying to work around. A desired date is useful context, not a reserved place on the schedule.
Before sending, check that the set includes overall views, problem areas, counts, rough dimensions if available and a short goal statement. Then use Southern Changes' kitchen options to start the conversation with Dani or Carl. Photos may support a preliminary range where the information allows. Confirmed condition, measurements and a written scope are still needed before a final quote.